For this September weekend, my longtime hiking companion Michi and I decided to tackle a few stages of the Alta Via della Valmalenco. Unfortunately, completing the entire trail requires several days, and our work commitments didn’t allow us to dedicate that much time.
We chose three of the most beautiful stages, though worsening weather forecasts for the final day forced us to cut our hike short after the second day. Still, the sections we managed to hike along the Alta Via della Valmalenco were stunning and exhilarating. The highlight was reaching Rifugio Marinelli, an incredible human outpost set in an otherworldly landscape.
From Chiareggio to Rifugio Palù
For the first stage, we parked our car in Chiesa in Valmalenco and took the local bus to the trailhead in Chiareggio. The trail quickly leaves the village behind and leads into increasingly wild high mountain terrain.
The halfway point is Rifugio Longoni, nestled into the rocky mountainside. Unfortunately, when we arrived, the refuge was closed for maintenance. From there, several options lead to Rifugio Palù; we chose the high route, which involves some fun scrambling over large rock slabs, eventually reaching Lago Palù.
The lake is enchanting, with a landscape so picturesque it feels straight out of a fantasy film, and the refuge on its shore marked the end of our first day’s hike.
Trail Notes
The trail itself is not particularly challenging. There are no via ferratas, and we encountered no ice or snow. Some sections require caution due to loose rocks, but an experienced hiker shouldn’t face any difficulties.
From Rifugio Palù to Rifugio Marinelli
After a lovely night at Rifugio Palù, we had a leisurely morning and, after bidding farewell to our bunkmates, set off for Rifugio Marinelli. The trail starts with a steep climb, but after that, it levels out into a gentle ascent for several kilometers.
Our midway stop was Rifugio Carate Brianza, famous for the “Seven Sighs” — referring to the number of times you see it appear and disappear on the horizon as you climb towards it.
The real magic begins as you approach the final stretch: the landscape shifts dramatically into high alpine terrain, with rocky outcrops and crystal-clear lakes. Soon after, we spotted Rifugio Marinelli perched high on a plateau.
One final push up the last ascent rewarded us with breathtaking views and a delicious lunch. At that point, we checked the weather forecast, which prompted us to cancel our reservation for the night at the refuge.
Instead, we opted for a swift descent, knowing we wouldn’t be able to complete the next stage the following day due to the approaching bad weather. We hiked straight down to Franscia, where we caught the bus back to our car.
Trail Notes
This stage doesn’t present any significant technical challenges, and while the elevation gain is substantial, it’s manageable for experienced hikers.
The descent from Rifugio Marinelli to Franscia is long and somewhat uncomfortable. It’s not a segment you’d normally want to tackle all in one go, but in this case, it was necessary to get off the mountain by nightfall.
