It wasn’t a particularly sunny day when we set off from Milan towards Valfurva, heading for Rifugio Forni. However, the Swiss weather forecasts assured us there would be no rain or snow, with a significant improvement expected for the following day. A quick phone call to the owner of Rifugio Pizzini reassured us that the trail was navigable, even without crampons, despite the first winter snows. Unfortunately, the one thing we didn’t check was the wind, which, as we would later discover, was unusually strong during those days. Additionally, the heavy, though early, snowfalls from the previous days had blocked significant portions of some trails, forcing us on a couple of occasions to turn back and choose alternative routes.
From Rifugio Forni to Rifugio Branca and then to Rifugio Pizzini
After parking the car in the designated area for Rifugio Pizzini guests, we decided to enjoy a good breakfast at the bar in Rifugio Forni before setting off. It was a way to recharge after the three-hour drive from Milan. Afterward, we began walking, deciding to first head towards Rifugio Branca for a brief stop. The cold, along with some snow and ice on the trail, didn’t worry us since the path was free of major challenges, practically a dirt road.
Leaving Rifugio Branca and heading towards Rifugio Pizzini, we had several trails to choose from. Hoping for reasonably good conditions, we opted for the high path, which runs along the stream before descending near Rifugio Pizzini. However, we soon encountered patches of snow that had swallowed portions of the trail. Luckily, in most cases, we were able to carefully navigate these sections with enough caution to move forward safely. This worked for several kilometers until we came across a stretch of the trail, several meters long, completely wiped out by snow. We had no choice but to turn back and find a connection to the lower, well-trodden trail on the opposite side of the stream.
At this point, the worst should have been behind us, but a cold, gusty wind full of snow dust hit us straight in the face, making the final climb much more difficult than it actually was. Once at the refuge, a hot meal and warm blankets in the room helped restore our spirits.
Trail notes
The high trail from Rifugio Branca to Rifugio Pizzini is usually an EE (Expert Hikers) trail of medium difficulty. However, in this case, the snow left many unmarked sections, which we managed to cross until a long, snow-covered stretch forced us to abandon the route. The lower trail, on the other hand, is a dirt road and remains fairly safe to walk, even with snow and ice. It’s advisable to carry crampons or at least light crampons.
From Rifugio Pizzini to Passo Zebrù and Back to Rifugio Forni
Our initial goal was to climb up to Rifugio Casati, the starting point for the glacier that leads to the top of Mount Cevedale—an experience I had enjoyed in the past and was eager to relive. However, worn out by the wind and cold of the previous day, and by the many snow-covered sections of the trail, we decided to skip the ascent. Instead, we aimed for a simpler destination: Passo Zebrù. This mountain pass leads towards the beautiful Rifugio Quinto Alpini, along the Giro del Confinale trail. Unfortunately, even here, we had to stop just a few meters short of our goal due to a steep section of the trail completely buried under snow. Despite the disappointment, it didn’t stop us from turning around, admiring the beauty of the landscape, and telling ourselves that it was still worth it. Afterward, we took the return path, opting for the dirt road that led comfortably and directly back to Rifugio Forni.
Before heading back to Milan, since it was right around lunchtime, we decided to stop along the road that runs through Valtellina for a delicious break and a tasting of local bresaola and cheeses.
Trail notes
The ascent towards Passo Zebrù is generally straightforward, and the unique layout of the valley allows for easy climbing, even with small deviations from the official trail. Only near the pass, where, as we experienced, large parts of the trail were covered in snow, does the difficulty increase—especially if you lack the proper equipment (like crampons).
