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Breaking the ice: my first glacier expedition experience on Monte Rosa

The first experience of glacier trekking is unforgettable. If the first glacier is Monte Rosa, this holds even truer. The view, once you reach the famous Capanna Margherita, an alpine refuge situated on the summit of Punta Gnifetti in the Monte Rosa range, at an altitude of 4,554 meters (the highest refuge in Europe), is beyond words. It feels like you’re on an airplane, but standing still. All the other mountains seem much lower, and it’s probably the thin air, but it almost feels like a dream.

For our Monte Rosa expedition, we relied on an official mountain guide. We spent the night at a higher altitude, at the Mantova Refuge, and woke up at 3:30 AM to set out with headlamps at 4:30 AM.

About the trail

The trail isn’t technically complicated. However, it does require some trekking experience, suitable equipment, and a basic understanding of the rules. Additionally, having a reliable mountain guide who can help the group minimize risks is crucial.

One significant challenge is the low oxygen levels typical of such high altitudes. In this case, even a 1,000-meter ascent, which you might be accustomed to at lower altitudes, can feel much more exhausting than usual. It’s a subjective condition, and in general, it’s a good idea to train by climbing a 3,000-meter mountain in the days leading up to the expedition to simulate a similar ascent.

What I personally struggled with the most wasn’t the lack of oxygen or the challenge of the 1,000-meter elevation gain. It was, in fact, the cold. Despite having specialized gear to retain heat, the exceptionally cold day and icy winds tested the resilience of my hands and face.

Some pics