Every time I drive from Milan back to Puglia, I can’t help but be captivated by the towering mountain range that stands proudly to the right, cutting through the Abruzzo landscape: the magnificent Gran Sasso. For a long time, I’ve looked at those rugged peaks with the dream of exploring them one day.
This November long weekend, that day finally arrived. With local friends as guides, we did two approach hikes, as well as a few shorter excursions to explore ancient mountain villages.
The First Approach: Campo Imperatore to Rifugio Duca degli Abruzzi
Our first approach to the Gran Sasso began at Campo Imperatore, heading towards the Rifugio Duca degli Abruzzi. This starting point is accessible by car (weather permitting, as long as there’s no snow) and gets you close to the trailhead leading toward the summit. At Campo Imperatore, there’s a historic building where Mussolini was reportedly held captive before his escape and subsequent recapture, adding an intriguing historical element to the place. Nearby, there’s a refuge where hikers can rest and refuel before or after their journey.
The hike to Rifugio Duca degli Abruzzi is a well-maintained tourist trail, suitable even for those without advanced training. In about an hour, the trail rewards hikers with close-up views of Corno Grande (the highest peak, roughly 1.5 to 2 hours further), as well as breathtaking panoramas of the vast park below.
The trail report
The Second Approach: Prati di Tivo to La Madonnina
We left our car near the Rifugio Cima Alta, taking advantage of snow-free roads to drive as high as possible. From there, a brief walk brought us to a stunning viewpoint, offering a sweeping vista of the province, villages, highways, and even a glimpse of the sea. It felt like looking at a live, 3D version of Google Maps.
We then set off on a gentle trail (rated “E” for ease) that winds up to La Madonnina, close to the cable car’s endpoint (though it was closed that day). From La Madonnina, it would have been exciting to press on to Rifugio Franchetti, about an hour away, but we decided to keep it simple this time as some group members weren’t quite ready. Another opportunity to reach it will surely come soon.
The trail report
Exploring Historic Villages: Rocca Calascio, Santo Stefano, and Pietracamela
Among our side trips, Rocca Calascio deserves a special mention. Perched on a mountainside, this ancient fortress offers panoramic views from the remaining tower, providing a unique, 360-degree look over the valleys below. The short path to the top intersects with the road, making it accessible to hikers of all levels.
We also strolled through the historic villages of Santo Stefano and Pietracamela, each rich in charm and history, offering a glimpse into life in these highland communities.
The trail report
Looking Ahead: The Main Summit
This entire journey was exhilarating and left me even more motivated to reach the primary summit of the Gran Sasso massif: Corno Grande. But there are many other peaks in the massif that are equally worth climbing. The adventure has only just begun!